The fashion platform Shein held its first show in Italy in October, in Milan, but it was met with criticism from the textile industry and the Italian government. The initiative by the Chinese company, now based in Singapore, reignited the debate about the impacts of ultra-fast fashion in the country.
The event took place in the same week that the Ministry of Enterprise and Made in Italy convened an emergency meeting to discuss the effects of the growing presence of low-cost clothing in the national market. "The textile sector is under attack," stated Luca Sburlati, director of Confindustria Moda, in an interview with AFP.
Government and industry react
Italian fashion minister Adolfo Urso warned of an “invasion of low-cost foreign products” which, according to him, harm local production and put consumers at risk. The industry, which represents about 5% of Italy's GDP, is expected to present a new strategic plan to strengthen national fashion in November.
At the European level, the sector is calling for an end to the tax exemption for orders below 150 euros, a measure already adopted by the United States.
Environmental and social impacts
Critics point to the environmental damage caused by disposable garments, produced at high speed and low cost. Shein has already been fined for lack of environmental transparency, both in Italy and France. Furthermore, the company is the target of complaints about working conditions in its factories.
Last week, the Italian government implemented a European Union directive requiring greater clarity in the disclosure of the environmental impacts of products sold in the country.
Popularity and appeal to young people
Despite the criticism, Shein maintains a strong presence in Milan. "You can't go out on the street without style," said student Mattia Trebino, 24, who attended the brand's fashion show. He revealed that he receives about four packages from Shein every month.
The event featured pieces inspired by 1980s Milan, such as three-piece suits and faux fur coats. "The idea was to show that everyone can find their style with Shein," said Luca Raveillon, artistic director of the show.
Italian influencer Alessia Tresoldi, with one million followers, praised the event and shared images on social media. "Shein observes what's happening on the streets," she stated.
A study by The European House-Ambrosetti revealed that Europeans consume 60% more clothing than in 2000 and keep the garments for half the time. According to the author, Carlo Cici, the sector needs to innovate to stand out, but faces consumers who value sustainability without wanting to pay more for it.
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