The hills of Langhe, in Piemonte, are the heart of renowned wines such as Barolo e Barbaresco, famous worldwide. However, this prestige coexists with a less glamorous reality: reports of the use of irregular immigrant labor.
According to the newspaper Financial Times, the shortage of workers in Italian wineries has led to a reliance on middlemen who employ undocumented immigrants. Many are lured by promises of work, but face long hours, low pay and poor conditions.
Fallou, a Senegalese immigrant, worked in vineyards in the region in 2024. Hired through middlemen, he was paid just €5 an hour and worked up to 11 hours a day without proper equipment. Situations like his are common but rarely reported, as immigrants fear reprisals or deportation.
The problem has been exacerbated by the increased demand for European wines since 2015. Previously, grape harvesting was carried out by families and local residents. Today, intensive production requires more workers, who are recruited by agencies that are not always regular.
Local prosecutors point out that monitoring is difficult, since wineries outsource hiring. Even with arrests of intermediaries accused of abuse, punishments are light and the practice persists.
Sergio Germano, president of the Langhe wine consortium, advocated the creation of a list of contractors that follow ethical standards.
Matteo Ascheri, former president of the Barolo consortium, criticized the wineries' lack of adherence to a labor code of ethics, but was removed for proposing changes.
The exploitation of workers threatens the image of excellence of Italian wines. “It is difficult to accept that business owners in such a prestigious region are not able to treat their employees better,” said prosecutor Biagio Mazzeo.
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